Nothing about Daniel Roseberry‘s tenure at Schiaparelli can be described as predictable or ordinary. Since he was tasked with revitalizing the historic French maison, the Texas-born designer has flexed his seemingly limitless creativity into larger-than-live collections that honor the often Surrealist, always imaginative legacy of founder Elsa Schiaparelli. Haute couture is where the brand shines — but Roseberry would like to remind customers that the world of Schiaparelli is meant for all facets of their lives.
For Spring 2023, Schiaparelli proposes a wardrobe that’s “extra ordinary”: silhouettes that fit your everyday needs — a white blouse, a black dress, a navy suit, a pair of high-waisted jeans with a matching denim jacket — elevated with fantastical details, from golden sequins to bejeweled buttons to ant embroidery, that takes them to a whole other stratosphere. Your “regular clothes” could never.
“I believe that everyone who creates ready-to-wear must and should ask themselves why they’re making clothes at all; why the world needs another ready-to-wear collection,” Roseberry wrote in the show notes. “For me, it’s the opportunity to offer the house’s admirers pieces that are both everyday and extraordinary. Ready-to-wear may be beholden to certain practical considerations, but that doesn’t mean that the woman who wears it isn’t any less entitled to fantasy than those who buy couture.”
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Presented at the Hotel D’Évreux on Thursday — right next to the Schiaparelli atelier off of Paris’ Place Vendôme — the collection marries craftsmanship and quality with the more tongue-in-cheek accoutrements that are now a Roseberry-for-Schiaparelli signature, narrowing the gap between the brand’s ready-to-wear and its haute couture. Though, he’s quick to clarify: This “isn’t just a more accessible cousin of Schiaparelli couture.”
Spring 2023— and Schiaparelli’s prêt-à-porter enterprise as a whole — is an “opportunity to speak to all sides of a woman’s life: the one that craves sumptuous evening gowns in satin and hammered silks, liquid viscose and vibrant acetates; but also the one that needs crisp white cotton shirts, clean-lined wool pencil skirts and trousers in every cut and fabric,” Roseberry wrote in the show notes. “It’s couture to live life in, whether life is a dinner party or the office or a flight.”
As far as inspirations go, the designer cites a recent trip to the Italian resort Il Pellicano and his frequent visits to Paris’ Paul Bert Serpette antiques market as inspirations that got him thinking more deeply about the power of a good, enduring piece, whether it’s a bold-colored dress or hammered gold bracelet.
The goal of Spring 2023 is to “encourage its wearers to reimagine what every day means,” Roseberry wrote. “These are pieces that will inspire everyone around, but at the end of the day, they are for the wearer themselves, and no one else. These are clothes that make you feel like you’re seeing ready-to-wear for the first time. They’re clothes that build the mystery of the woman — one garment at a time.”
See the full Schiaparelli Spring 2023 collection in the gallery below.
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